Bright Angel Trail, South Kaibab & the Death Zone
July 13, 2012
Bright Angel Trail Mather Point Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

One for the Road | Travel & Adventures

Bright Angel Trail, South Kaibab & the Death Zone
July 13, 2012

The Bright Angel Trail and the South Kaibab Trail are not only two of the more well-known and heavily-traveled trails in Grand Canyon National Park, but they’re two of the more famous trails within the entire national parks system. Both begin (or end) on the more popular South Rim of the Grand Canyon and with either, you can can hike down 100’ simply for a different perspective of the canyon or you can take them 20+ miles down to the Colorado River before climbing back up the opposite side of the canyon to the North Rim.

Bright Angel Trail South Kaibob Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

When I visited the Grand Canyon on my first big photography trip back in 2012, we only planned on hiking a few miles into the canyon along the South Kaibob Trail.

After about a mile and a half of some casual switchbacks and passing the appropriately-named Ooh-Aah Point, we reached Cedar Point. As the park guides say, Cedar Point is “a good turn-a-round for first time canyon hikes, casual hikers, and late starters.” We definitely fit all three categories that day, but it was such a beautiful hike to that point, we just weren’t ready to turn around yet. Plus, from what we could see of the trail leading North past O’Neill Butte, it appeared pretty flat as it traverses the ridge out to Skeleton Point (6 miles roundtrip).

Skeleton Point was where we caught our first glimpse of the mighty Colorado River and it was one of the first places where the sheer size of the Grand Canyon was actually put into perspective for me. Being able to look down at the very distant river, yet back up at a seemingly equally distant rim was extraordinary and imposing.

We poured over the map discussing what might be ahead of us if we went for the river and I heard what can only be described as a snicker from an older couple sitting a few feet away when I said, “Screw it, why not?”

Seven miles and two hours forty-five minutes after getting off the shuttle bus near Yaki Point, I was laying back on a sandy beach with my feet in the cold Colorado River feeling completely accomplished. Even the slightest perspective change can alter one’s mindset of the scene laid out in front of them, but sitting on that beach brought the Grand Canyon to a whole new level for me.

Not wanting to leave the soft sand and cool water, we forced ourselves to keep moving towards Bright Angel Campground to stock up on some much needed water before heading back up the Bright Angel Trail – 4400’ feet of gain at an average grade of 10%.

Bright Angel Trail South Kaibob Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Bright Angel Trail South Kaibob Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Bright Angel Trail South Kaibob Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Bright Angel Trail South Kaibob Grand Canyon National Park Arizona
Bright Angel Trail South Kaibob Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

A little under a mile after leaving Phantom Ranch, the Bright Angel Trail departs from the river and leads into a canyon carved out by Pipe Creek. Out of all the hiking I’ve done in my life, I have never felt as horrible, fatigued, and disoriented as I felt that day as we began the trudge up Pipe Creek.  The temperature within the canyon was pushing 100° and despite already downing about three liters of water, I felt so dehydrated that I was worried I was about to pass out. Every step was a struggle for me and I couldn’t help but think we had made a really poor decision.

It turns out that this is not an uncommon mistake either. A few weeks after our trek, we came to learn that this section of the Bright Angel Trail is called “the Death Zone” because approximately 200 people are rescued from this area each year, primarily during summer when temperatures are the highest. Years ago, the park experienced 10 fatalities in this segment which prompted the ranger service to implement a Preventive Search and Rescue program where they patrol the trail and assess hikers.

Bright Angel Trail South Kaibob Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

Luckily, after nearly 2 miles in the Death Zone, the trail moves from Pipe Creek to the shadier Garden Creek before reaching Indian Garden Campground and a water refill station.

After some rest in the shade and drinking another few liters of water, I got a second wind and was finally feeling good again. Tired, but no longer legit worried about my safety

For me, the final climb from Indian Garden to the rim was more mentally tough than physically difficult. Looking up the trail, you’re able to not only see the final destination of the rim, but also the 3 Mile Resthouse and 1.5 Mile Resthouse in between. Everything just all looked so looked so close, yet there were miles and miles of switchbacks in between. It was simply mentally draining.

Trekking down the South Kaibob Trail to the Colorado River and then back up the Bright Angel Trail was easily the toughest hike I’ve ever done. However, it was also the best hike that I’ve ever done.

After cresting the top of the rim and getting back to civilization,I couldn’t help but smile when someone asked me how far we had hiked and I replied with, “the river.”

Bright Angel Trail South Kaibob Grand Canyon National Park Arizona

*I absolutely do not recommend doing this hike in one day. Looking back and thinking about how I felt, this was a really dumb decision.*

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